Aidann Gia, Pace University
I moved to the United States at eighteen months old from an urbanized, mountainous city named Baguio, located on the largest island in the Philippines. I’ve resided just north of Annapolis, Maryland since, attending mostly predominantly white institutions. I am currently a senior at Pace University, surrounded by peers with skin tones that do not resemble mine and cultural experiences that do not align with my own. To be surrounded by individuals that understand the same language, feel music that resonates with my collectivist values, and eat foods that resemble common suppers at grandma’s. Finding Filipino cuisine isn’t terribly difficult, as Little Manila in Queens flourishes and the Jollibee franchise grows throughout the city. These spots, however, lack the essence of fine dining and occurence of basking in all the senses a meal can offer. The elements I deemed necessary for an optimal dinner as a homesick first-gen college student were all found in Kalye, an Asian owned establishment within walking distance of my college campus.
Kimi, my close friend, ventured with me to try out their selection after our last class. She identifies as Chinese American, with some rudimentary knowledge and cultural appreciation for Filipino foods, but was ecstatic when I invited her to dinner.
“The space was very cozy and homey. The lighting was not harsh, which I loved. They were playing Filipino movies on a projector in the back which added a unique touch to the vibe of the restaurant,” Kimi noted.
Although just a small touch, the restaurant presenting old films with movie stars of bronze complexion and jet black hair elicited an indescribable euphoria within my body. Modern gilded lamps illuminated the dining space, cascaded an ambient glow throughout the room. The walls exhibited drawings of caricatures and quotes written in Tagalog, strewn across the entire establishment. We settled in quickly and found the menu to immediately entice us.
To start, we placed an order for two drinks. An ube-horchata mocktail was served with a smoking cinnamon stick, placed delicately between ice cubes. The drink was heavy on the ube and left a thin film covering my tongue in the sweetness of the ube yam. The Darna cocktail encapsulated a mix of tequila, mezcal, guava, agave, aperol, lime, thai chili, club soda, and glitter stars. Both had a gorgeous, vibrant-colored presentation.
We selected two appetizers: a traditional platter of pork lumpia and bowl of laaing. Lumpia is essentially crispy spring rolls stuffed with minced garlic and a sweet pork filling. The six pieces and complementary sweet chili sauce served were the staples of the evening. This bowl of laaing was comprised of dried taro leaves and coconut milk to create a dip for the side of pita chips.
”The laaing with chips was so addictive. I couldn’t stop eating it. The salty chips with savory dip and spicy chili is a great combo,” Kimi raved. “The lemon adds to its very unique flavor. The coconut taste was delicious.”
For our main courses, Kimi ordered the mushroom sisig, a vegetarian take on the Filipino classic pork sisig. An assortment of diced mushrooms and a mix of chickpeas was placed on our table, alongside a large scoop of plain rice, as the intensity of onions and peppers did not subside quickly.
Kimi took notes, “The mushrooms were well-cooked and not overly chewy. It’s a very savory fish.”
To my surprise, family-sized lechon was on the dinner menu. Of all Filipino dishes in existence, this was my favorite. It is served at every thanksgiving my family hosts, with elated cousins, aunts, uncles, and godparents devouring handfuls of rice and pork, with banana leaves replacing typical ceramic dinnerware. A wave of an unfamiliar emotion came over me as it was brought out on a woven plate. The incredibly fatty, tender, juicy chunks of pork melted in my mouth, perfected by the sweetness of mang tomas, a thick, brown sauce made especially for lechon.
Our last dishes were a portion of ube ice cream and a mango float. The smooth bright-purple ice cream was topped with little slivers of white jelly and a sea-salt taste. I preferred this dessert, while Kimi favored the mango float. Frozen mango slices, sandwiched between two layers of mango ice cream, sat on a base of graham crackers in this final dish. To the side was a dash of cherry compote, a pleasant surprise for my evening companion.
“Around 7:30 they started having live music which elevated my dining experience and made the space more fun. The waitress was very informed when asked questions on the menu and the service was quick,” she reviewed. “Overall my experience was very positive and I’d love to go back for one of their Sunday drag brunches.”
I had two major takeaways from the night: a.) this small hidden gem of a restaurant can be one of the safe havens that I can look to when I am in need of familiar language, food, and faces b.) the restaurant was filled with people of all ethnic backgrounds and was enjoyable for anyone who was willing to try new foods, music, and atmosphere. Thankfully, Kalye (Rivington St.) has partnered with Campus Clipper to give students 20% off when they show their valid student ID and the coupon below.
